Prague – Gritty Places, Serious Faces

The Guy and I came to Prague so I could get ICL surgery. I visited Prague 10 years ago and was enchanted with the Baroque architecture and especially the Charles Bridge.

You access the bridge by going under a large tower and it’s lined with statues of patron saints. The gothic style and historical significance lend itself to countless creepy legends – which is the part I like best.

Prague is a gorgeous city that has a grittier feel to it, unlike the cleanliness of Vienna and safety of Budapest. There are more scam artists, street performers, pickpockets, and somber faces. People openly stare at me here, a lot.

Apparently, there is a huge taxi driving scandal happening in Prague where drivers take tourists for a ride and charge exorbitant fees. Not all taxis are apart of it but those that are pay a fee to the big boss – something akin to the mafia. It’s serious business.

But just like traveling anywhere, you’ll be fine if you’re careful.

Sights in Prague

View of Charles Bridge
View of Prague Castle from Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge Tower
View from Charles Bridge

Strahov Library and Astronomical Tower

No pictures allowed but I snuck one of this hall
Here’s the other hall from Google so you can imagine its awesomeness
Sextant for Astronomy
View of Prague from tower

Old Jewish Cemetery

Memorial to Victims of Communism

Havel’s Market -or- Havelské tržiště Market

This market is permanently open in the city center and dates back to 1232.

Kutná Hora

Outside of Prague, an hour train ride or so, is a small city called Kutná Hora that has a bone church. Yes, it’s a church made out of human bones called the Sedlec Ossuary.

What happened was some guy (affiliated with the church of course) named Henry went to the Holy Land and came back with a fistful of dirt. Word got out that he sprinkled the dirt over the cemetery and then everyone wanted to get buried there.

They ended up with way too many bones so tasked a half-blind monk to stack them in the church. The half blind monk said, “Ok cool, yeah I can do that” and this is the result.

Ceiling – like a lightless skull chandelier

Now that I’ve got your appetite revved up, let’s talk about food.

The Food

The Czech are seriously into duck and it’s on every menu like chicken and beef are staples on America’s menu.

The big ones in Prague are duck leg, pork neck, and pork knuckle. Goulash (from Hungary) and Schnitzel (from Austria) still feature strongly around here. Beer is cheaper than water. And garlic soup is like an upside down french onion soup.

They serve drinks warm and room temperature is even warmer. Czechs don’t draw out their meals quite like western Europeans do and have quicker eating cycles like Americans.

Goulash with traditional bread “dumplings”
Boar neck
Potato Pancakes
Eidam Cheese (tastes like mozzarella but SHHH I didn’t say that…)
Pilsen Urquell – world’s first pilsner blond lager

Pro Tip: When it comes to restaurants, DON’T LISTEN TO TRIP ADVISOR unless you like getting ripped off or have white washed versions of food.

Just 1 or 2 streets over, prices drop dramatically and you get a more authentic dining experience.

The Guy and I roamed a lot so sometimes we ended up many streets over in some nook or cranny – but those are where you might find hidden gems.

Things to Note About Prague

Nearly all dogs walk off leash here. They just know to stay within range of their owners and no one minds that dogs roam around. They also poo everywhere though so watch your step.

Room temperature is about 10 degrees warmer so we were kind of hot everywhere we went.

Coat racks are a thing. Few people hang their jackets on their chairs. Instead, they’ll cross the room to use the coat rack.

People on the street just seem to walk right into you without an attempt to move or an apology. They also have no shame in staring you down big time.

Pleather pants are trending around here. Made possible because it’s cold?

Pizza is terrible. I mean, terrible.

We saw beer being refilled for restaurants like septic tanks. A long hose ran from the beer truck to inside the building – because who has time for kegs?

Overall, I prefer Prague’s grit over other more sanitized European cities because you’re more likely to come across different and interesting things. Take this weird elevator The Guy found for example.

So how do you think Prague compares to the rest of Europe? Do you find the possibility of crime intriguing or worrisome?

Whatever you do, make sure you negotiate rates with your taxi driver before getting in the cab!

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